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Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and...
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Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 May 2022) | Viewed by 50140

Special Issue Editors

Prof. Dr. Carmen Garcia-Jares

E-Mail Website1 Website2
Guest Editor
Laboratorio de Investigacion y Desarrollo de Soluciones Analiticas (LIDSA), Departamento de Quimica Analitica, Nutricion y Bromatologia, Universidade de Santiago de Compostela, E-15782 Santiago de Compostela, Spain
Interests: analytical chemistry of cosmetics; miniaturized sample preparation methods; bioactive compounds and natural extracts; photo-degradation of cosmetic ingredients; properties and new applications of winemaking by-products; chromatography-mass spectrometry; indoor and outdoor emerging pollutants
Dr. Laura Rubio

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
CRETUS- Cross-Research in Environmental Technologies, Department of Analytical Chemistry, Nutrition and Food Science, Universidade de Santiago de Compostela, E-15782 Santiago de Compostela, Spain
Interests: bioactive compounds; natural extracts; borderline products; cosmetic analysis; chromatography; mass spectrometry

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

There is a growing trend in the development of cosmetic products with new properties, applications, and expanded life, in addition to an increasing attention to current consumer claims as greener and safer compositions. As a result, some important changes have already taken place. These include the progressive replacement of some preservatives with new natural compounds and complex extracts or essential oils with antimicrobial properties, as well as those which are effective as antioxidants. The study of plant-derived ingredients to be used in the cosmetic market is worth consideration, along with the rise of nanotechnology in the design of new cosmetic formulations. In addition, the development of products with particular characteristics to be considered as “extreme cosmetics” or “borderline products”, as well as the market of cosmetic tattoos, is rapidly growing. These are just some of the trends. The continuous innovation in products and ingredients means an expansion and enhancement of the cosmetics market, but at the same time a major challenge from a regulatory perspective, in addition to presenting challenges in the development of analytical methods for proper control.  

This Special Issue calls for manuscripts that explore innovations in cosmetics formulations and ingredients, regulatory challenges, and analytical developments, including: (1) new preservatives, antioxidants, and sun-protection agents; (2) natural extracts; (3) nanotechnology in cosmetics; (4) extreme cosmetics and borderline products; (5) temporary and permanent tattoos; (5) permanent make-up; (6) unexpected contaminants; (7) quality control; and (8) analytical methods development and application.

Prof. Dr. Carmen Garcia-Jares
Dr. Laura Rubio
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • Trends in cosmetics chemistry
  • New cosmetics ingredients
  • Natural preservatives and antioxidants
  • Nanocosmetics
  • Extreme cosmetics and borderline products
  • Tattoos
  • Cosmetics safety and control
  • Analytical methods

Published Papers (9 papers)

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Research

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11 pages, 792 KiB  
Article
Open-Label Study to Evaluate the Efficacy of a Topical Anhydrous Formulation with 15% Pure Ascorbic Acid and Ginger as a Potent Antioxidant
by Tamara Martínez-Valverde, Nuria Crespo and Elisa Suñer
Cosmetics 2022, 9(4), 74; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics9040074 - 22 Jul 2022
Viewed by 3326
Abstract
Vitamin C is one of the naturally occurring antioxidants capable of reducing or preventing skin photoaging. Achieving a stable formulation with the optimal dose of ascorbic acid to ensure a biologically significant antioxidant effect is a challenge when developing cosmetic formulations. The objective [...] Read more.
Vitamin C is one of the naturally occurring antioxidants capable of reducing or preventing skin photoaging. Achieving a stable formulation with the optimal dose of ascorbic acid to ensure a biologically significant antioxidant effect is a challenge when developing cosmetic formulations. The objective of this study was to develop a stable formula in a non-aqueous media with 15% pure vitamin C supplemented with ginger and to study its efficacy, skin tolerance, and cosmetic assessment in 33 women. Vitamin C stability over time was determined via a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) technique versus an aqueous option. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) determination was quantified to provide antioxidant effect. A 56-day in vivo study was performed to evaluate skin luminosity and hyperpigmentation reduction. Skin acceptability was verified by a dermatologist. The HPLC studies demonstrated a high stability of the anhydrous formula compared to an aqueous option. The in vitro studies showed a reduction in ROS of 93% (p-value < 0.0001). In vivo, luminosity increased by 17% (p-value < 0.0001) and skin tone became 10% more uniform (p-value < 0.007). Moreover, very good skin tolerance was determined as the dermatologist did not determine any clinical signs, and the subjects did not report any feelings of discomfort. We were able to develop an anhydrous formula of pure vitamin C that combines very good stability, consumer acceptance, and skin tolerance with a high level of efficacy. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)
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6 pages, 1965 KiB  
Communication
Effects of Structure on the Solubility of UV Filters
by Marc Del Olmo, Àngel Navarro, Cristina Garcia, Taro Ehara and Lluís Beltran
Cosmetics 2022, 9(3), 60; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics9030060 - 07 Jun 2022
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3205
Abstract
In recent years, one of the most concerning topics in healthcare is the constant exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light being the cause of numerous skin diseases. This issue created a keen interest in sun-care cosmetics, and particularly in sunscreens, since it has been [...] Read more.
In recent years, one of the most concerning topics in healthcare is the constant exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light being the cause of numerous skin diseases. This issue created a keen interest in sun-care cosmetics, and particularly in sunscreens, since it has been proven to significantly reduce human skin disorders. Usually, sunscreens are formulated as emulsions with organic UV-absorbers dissolved in the oil phase; thus, the solubility of these UV-filters in the emollients is crucial. In this work we expose the properties of different emollients, correlating the chemical structure with the ability to dissolve organic UV-filters. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)
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8 pages, 216 KiB  
Article
Trends in Cosmetics: Product Packaging at the Point of Sale
by Belén Borja Guerrero, Aránzazu López Pecharromán and Rosario C. Sánchez León
Cosmetics 2022, 9(2), 27; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics9020027 - 24 Feb 2022
Cited by 4 | Viewed by 3927
Abstract
Recently, there has been a proliferation of establishments where cosmetics products are packaged at the purchaser’s request, promoting the circular economy with the aim of reusing, recycling and reducing packaging. At the Spanish Agency of Medicines and Medical Devices (AEMPS, for its Spanish [...] Read more.
Recently, there has been a proliferation of establishments where cosmetics products are packaged at the purchaser’s request, promoting the circular economy with the aim of reusing, recycling and reducing packaging. At the Spanish Agency of Medicines and Medical Devices (AEMPS, for its Spanish acronym), we asked ourselves whether this was a legal and safe practice. In order to verify this, a bibliographic analysis of the applicable legislation and regulations was carried out, and the conclusion reached was that it is legal practice, but a series of guidelines are necessary for it to be carried out with guarantees. Consequently, an instruction was developed which provides recommendations to ensure that the packaging of cosmetic products at the point of sale is carried out under optimum conditions. This instruction is aimed at both responsible persons and the personnel who carry out product packaging at the point of sale. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)
12 pages, 1444 KiB  
Article
Cryptomphalus aspersa Eggs Extract Potentiates Human Epidermal Stem Cell Regeneration and Amplification
by Lucía San Juan, Isabel de Pedro, Azahara Rodríguez-Luna, María Villalba, Antonio Guerrero, Salvador González and Alberto Gandarillas
Cosmetics 2022, 9(1), 2; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics9010002 - 23 Dec 2021
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 3505
Abstract
Modern life and extended life expectancy have prompted the search for natural compounds alleviating skin aging. Evidence supports the beneficial effects on skin integrity and health from the topical administration of preparations of the mollusc Cryptomphalus aspersa eggs extract (IFC-CAF®) and [...] Read more.
Modern life and extended life expectancy have prompted the search for natural compounds alleviating skin aging. Evidence supports the beneficial effects on skin integrity and health from the topical administration of preparations of the mollusc Cryptomphalus aspersa eggs extract (IFC-CAF®) and suggests these effects are partly derived from an impact on skin renewal and repair mechanisms. The objective was to dissect in vitro the specific impact of IFC-CAF® on different parameters related to the regenerative potential, differentiation phenotype and exhaustion of skin stem cells. A prominent impact of IFC-CAF® was the induction of stratification and differentiated phenotypes from skin stem cells. IFC-CAF® slowed down the cell cycle at the keratinocyte DNA repair phase and, decelerated proliferation. However, it preserved the proliferative potential of the stem cells. IFC-CAF® reduced the DNA damage marker, γH2AX, and induced the expression of the transcription factor p53. These features correlated with significant protection in telomere shortening upon replicative exhaustion. Thus, IFC-CAF® helps maintain orderly cell cycling and differentiation, thus potentiating DNA repair and integrity. Our observations support the regenerative and repair capacity of IFC-CAF® on skin, through the improved mobilization and ordered differentiation of keratinocyte precursors and the enhancement of genome surveillance and repair mechanisms that counteract aging. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)
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10 pages, 1229 KiB  
Article
Miniaturized Sample Preparation Methods to Simultaneously Determine the Levels of Glycols, Glycol Ethers and Their Acetates in Cosmetics
by Maria Celeiro, Laura Rubio, Carmen Garcia-Jares and Marta Lores
Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 102; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics8040102 - 03 Nov 2021
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 3655
Abstract
Two environmentally friendly methodologies based on ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) and micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (µMSPD) followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis are proposed for the first time for the simultaneous analysis of 17 glycols, glycol ethers, and their acetates in cosmetics. These sample [...] Read more.
Two environmentally friendly methodologies based on ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) and micro-matrix solid-phase dispersion (µMSPD) followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis are proposed for the first time for the simultaneous analysis of 17 glycols, glycol ethers, and their acetates in cosmetics. These sample preparation approaches result in efficient and low-cost extraction while employing small amounts of sample, with a low consumption of reagents and organic solvents. The use of a highly polar column allows for the direct analysis of the obtained extracts by GC-MS without a previous derivatization step, drastically reducing the sample preparation time and residues and thus complying with green analytical chemistry (GAC) principles. Both the UAE and µMSPD methodologies were validated in terms of linearity, accuracy, and precision, providing satisfactory results. LODs were found to be lower than 0.75 µg g−1, allowing the determination of trace levels of the forbidden target compounds. Finally, the validated methodologies were applied to real cosmetics and personal care products, showing suitability, and providing a reliable and useful tool for cosmetics control laboratories. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)
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9 pages, 1208 KiB  
Article
Antiaging and Skin Irritation Potential of Four Main Indonesian Essential Oils
by Dwinna Rahmi, Retno Yunilawati, Bumiarto Nugroho Jati, Ira Setiawati, Arief Riyanto, Irmanida Batubara and Rika Indri Astuti
Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 94; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics8040094 - 30 Sep 2021
Cited by 7 | Viewed by 5320
Abstract
Essential oils possess antiaging properties due to their antioxidant activity. This study aims to determine the antiaging activities of four main Indonesian essential oils and their irritation potential on the skin. The spot yeast and in vivo rat skin with UVB exposure methods [...] Read more.
Essential oils possess antiaging properties due to their antioxidant activity. This study aims to determine the antiaging activities of four main Indonesian essential oils and their irritation potential on the skin. The spot yeast and in vivo rat skin with UVB exposure methods were used to analyze the antiaging activity of essential oils on aging triggered by endogenous and exogenous factors, respectively. Meanwhile, patch tests and clinical evaluations were used for the skin irritation potential analysis. The antiaging activity results from the endogenous factor showed that the use of clove, patchouli, nutmeg, and citronella oils increased yeast viability at concentrations of 20, 40, 60, and 100 µg/mL, respectively. Furthermore, nutmeg, cloves, citronella, and patchouli oils decreased the wrinkle score on rat skin after UVB exposure (exogenous factor). The skin irritation potential results of patchouli, nutmeg, citronella, and clove oils were none (0), slightly (0.02), moderately (0.09), and very irritating (0.39), respectively. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)
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Review

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17 pages, 1912 KiB  
Review
Azadirachta indica (Neem) as a Potential Natural Active for Dermocosmetic and Topical Products: A Narrative Review
by André Rolim Baby, Thamires Batello Freire, Gabriela de Argollo Marques, Patricia Rijo, Fabiana Vieira Lima, João Carlos Monteiro de Carvalho, John Rojas, Wagner Vidal Magalhães, Maria Valéria Robles Velasco and Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome
Cosmetics 2022, 9(3), 58; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics9030058 - 02 Jun 2022
Cited by 17 | Viewed by 13608
Abstract
Azadirachta indica (Neem) is a large tree that is native to India and is traditionally used due to its several properties, mainly to treat skin diseases, as well as its “herbicidal” activity. Its bark, leaves, seeds, fruits and flowers are widely used in [...] Read more.
Azadirachta indica (Neem) is a large tree that is native to India and is traditionally used due to its several properties, mainly to treat skin diseases, as well as its “herbicidal” activity. Its bark, leaves, seeds, fruits and flowers are widely used in medicinal treatment due to the presence of active secondary metabolites with biological effects, mainly limonoids and tetranortriterpenoids, such as azadirachtin. Thus, A. indica was studied in a variety of conditions, such as anticancer, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and chemopreventive agents, as well as a biopesticide. Furthermore, differentiated cell tissue in A. indica cultivation was reported to produce active metabolites for different purposes. However, only a few studies have been developed regarding its potential use in cosmetics. For instance, most studies explained the antimicrobial properties in health conditions, such as acne, dandruff and personal health care. Here, we summarized not only the most common cosmetic claims to treat acne but also mitigating other skin disorders related to inflammatory and oxidant processes in recent in vivo studies and patents to aid researchers and industrialists to select A. indica derivatives as novel cosmetic ingredients. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)
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21 pages, 1718 KiB  
Review
Genetic and Epigenetic Aspects of Skin Collagen Fiber Turnover and Functioning
by Nikolay N. Potekaev, Olga B. Borzykh, German V. Medvedev, Marina M. Petrova, Oksana A. Gavrilyuk, Elena I. Karpova, Vera V. Trefilova, Olga M. Demina, Tatiana E. Popova and Natalia A. Shnayder
Cosmetics 2021, 8(4), 92; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics8040092 - 29 Sep 2021
Cited by 6 | Viewed by 7087
Abstract
One of the most important functions of the skin, i.e., protection from mechanical damage, is ensured by collagen fibers and their interaction with other elements in the extracellular matrix. Collagen fiber turnover is a complex multi-stage process. At each stage, a disruption may [...] Read more.
One of the most important functions of the skin, i.e., protection from mechanical damage, is ensured by collagen fibers and their interaction with other elements in the extracellular matrix. Collagen fiber turnover is a complex multi-stage process. At each stage, a disruption may occur, leading to a decrease in the mechanical properties of the connective tissue. Clinically, collagen formation disorders manifest themselves as increased flabbiness and looseness of the skin and as early signs of facial aging. In addition to the clinical picture, it is important for cosmetologists and dermatologists to understand the etiology and pathogenesis of collagenopathies. In our review, we summarized and systematized the available information concerning the role of genetic and epigenetic factors in skin collagen fiber turnover. Furthermore, we focused on the functions of different types of collagens present in the skin. Understanding the etiology of impaired collagen formation can allow doctors to prescribe pathogenetically based treatments, achieve the most effective results, and minimize adverse reactions. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)
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Other

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10 pages, 4337 KiB  
Case Report
Managing Wound Healing with a High-Risk Patient: A Case Report
by Nikolai N. Potekaev, Olga B. Borzykh, German V. Medvedev, Marina M. Petrova, Elena I. Karpova, Maria A. Zatolokina, Mustafa Al-Zamil, Olga M. Demina, Ekaterina A. Narodova and Natalia A. Shnayder
Cosmetics 2022, 9(2), 28; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics9020028 - 26 Feb 2022
Cited by 1 | Viewed by 3540
Abstract
Wound healing is a complex, multi-step process. This process begins immediately after skin damage. The outcome of wound healing depends on the quality of each stage of this process: a normal or pathological scar. Violation of wound healing entails a decrease in the [...] Read more.
Wound healing is a complex, multi-step process. This process begins immediately after skin damage. The outcome of wound healing depends on the quality of each stage of this process: a normal or pathological scar. Violation of wound healing entails a decrease in the function of scar tissue as well as aesthetic dissatisfaction with the patient. This problem is especially important in aesthetic surgery. Patients who have come for beauty feel frustration, obtaining pathological scars. We have been dealing with the problem of wound healing after plastic surgery for about 10 years. Our approach includes the assessment of the risk of pathological wound healing and the treatment of high-risk patients. The risk assessment includes historical data on wound healing, signs of connective tissue dysfunction (especially patients with connective tissue dysplasia), and genetic polymorphisms of genes responsible for the structure of the components of the extracellular matrix of the skin. In the future, patients with a high risk of pathological scarring can be prescribed treatment after surgery. This article presents a clinical case in which we demonstrate our approach. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Trends in Cosmetics: New Ingredients and Properties, Regulatory Issues and Analytical Challenges)
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