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Cosmetics
Special Issues
Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, Formulations and Devices
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Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, Formulations and Devices

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: closed (31 July 2022) | Viewed by 27464

Special Issue Editors

Dr. Eduardo Perez

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Research and Development Department, Signum Biosciences, 11 Deer Park Drive Suite 202, Monmouth Junction, NJ 08852, USA
Interests: dermatology, skin care, in vitro testing, product development
Dr. Jose R. Fernandez

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Research and Development Department, Signum Biosciences, 11 Deer Park Drive Suite 202, Monmouth Junction, NJ 08852, USA
Interests: cell biology, dermatology, in vitro and in vivo testing
Dr. Jeffry B. Stock

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Molecular Biology, Princeton University, Princeton, NJ 08540, USA
Interests: biochemistry, dermatology, biophysics, signal transduction, structural biology

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

The global skin care market reported more than USD 100 Billion in sales in 2021 and is projected to increase to ~USD 150 Billion by 2028. Alongside this explosion of cosmetic sales, consumers have also become more savvy, seeking products that are backed by scientific data and not just marketing. However, the cosmetic industry has lacked innovation in recent decades, relying largely on reformulations and repackaging of the same functional ingredients, instead of performing research and development to identify new actives.

With this in mind, in this Special Issue we aim to present a collection of novel ingredients (small molecule or botanical extracts), and/or new topical formulations containing these ingredients or cosmetic devices for skin that demonstrate both promising in vitro activity and/or human clinical data. 

Dr. Eduardo Perez
Dr. Jose R. Fernandez
Dr. Jeffry B. Stock
Guest Editors

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • skin care
  • skin health
  • cosmetic functional ingredients
  • botanical extracts
  • topical formulations
  • human skin
  • keratinocytes
  • dermal fibroblasts
  • 3D human skin

Published Papers (4 papers)

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Research

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11 pages, 276 KiB  
Article
A Green Tea Containing Skincare System Improves Skin Health and Beauty in Adults: An Exploratory Controlled Clinical Study
by Ruofen Liao, Tory Parker, Kelly Bellerose, David Vollmer and Xuesheng Han
Cosmetics 2022, 9(5), 96; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics9050096 - 12 Sep 2022
Cited by 2 | Viewed by 9213
Abstract
Skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, red spots, red vasculature, and porphyrin count are common indicators of skin health and beauty. The skincare system in this study contains scientifically validated ingredients such as fermented green tea (Camellia sinensis) water, niacinamide, antioxidants, [...] Read more.
Skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, red spots, red vasculature, and porphyrin count are common indicators of skin health and beauty. The skincare system in this study contains scientifically validated ingredients such as fermented green tea (Camellia sinensis) water, niacinamide, antioxidants, and a variety of natural plant extracts. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of this skincare system in improving facial-skin health and beauty. Twenty-six healthy adults, both female and male, aged 18–54 and of all skin types and tones, were included in the study and participated as either the active or the control group (competitor product) using designated topical products for 30 days. Skin moisture, fine lines and wrinkles, porphyrin count, red spots, and red vasculature count were measured through high-quality photography, Visia® complexion analysis, FitSkin® skin analysis, and survey questions on day 0, day 8, and day 30. Significant improvements were observed in facial moisture, red-spot count, red vasculature count, and porphyrin count on day 30 in comparison with the control group. Non-significant improvements were observed in pores, skin texture, and wrinkles. With extensive well-documented functional ingredients, the studied skincare system used daily may significantly improve key areas of skin health and beauty. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, Formulations and Devices)
14 pages, 3319 KiB  
Article
Methylcellulose-Chitosan Smart Gels for Hairstyling
by Meghan Hartson, Ciara Coyle and Samiul Amin
Cosmetics 2022, 9(4), 69; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics9040069 - 27 Jun 2022
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 3540
Abstract
Methylcellulose and chitosan served as promising ingredients for a thermoresponsive hair styling gel after successful application in the medical industry. Both ingredients uphold the clean beauty standard without infringing on performance. By combining these two ingredients, a hair gel can be created that [...] Read more.
Methylcellulose and chitosan served as promising ingredients for a thermoresponsive hair styling gel after successful application in the medical industry. Both ingredients uphold the clean beauty standard without infringing on performance. By combining these two ingredients, a hair gel can be created that promises an extended hold of style once a heated external stimulus, such as a curling wand, is applied to the hair. Chitosan serves as the cationic biopolymer to adhere the gel to the hair, whereas the methylcellulose acts as the smart biopolymer to lock the desired hairstyle in place. Various ranges of chitosan and methylcellulose concentrations were explored for formulation optimization with rheology and curl drop testing. The rheology testing included a flow sweep test to understand the shear-thinning behavior of the sample as well as the effect of concentration on viscosity. Another rheology test completed was a temperature ramp test from room temperature (25 °C) to 60 °C to study the effect of heat on the various concentrations within the samples. A curl drop test was performed as well, over a 48-h period in which the different samples were applied to wet hair tresses, dried, curled, and hung vertically to see how the style held up over a long period of time with the influence of gravity. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, Formulations and Devices)
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17 pages, 2197 KiB  
Article
Encapsulated Activated Grape Seed Extract: A Novel Formulation with Anti-Aging, Skin-Brightening, and Hydration Properties
by Kan Tao, Lili Guo, Xincheng Hu, Corey Fitzgerald, Karl Rouzard, Jason Healy, Masanori Tamura, Jeffry B. Stock, Maxwell Stock, Eduardo Pérez and José R. Fernández
Cosmetics 2022, 9(1), 4; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics9010004 - 30 Dec 2021
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 8936
Abstract
Protein phosphatase 2A (PP2A) is a master regulatory protein that plays a critical role in oxidative stress signaling. A novel, proprietary grape seed extract called Activated Grape Seed Extract (AGSE), enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids, was recently developed and demonstrated to have antioxidant and [...] Read more.
Protein phosphatase 2A (PP2A) is a master regulatory protein that plays a critical role in oxidative stress signaling. A novel, proprietary grape seed extract called Activated Grape Seed Extract (AGSE), enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids, was recently developed and demonstrated to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. AGSE is a purple-colored powder, with limited solubility restricting its use in a broad range of formulations. Our aim was to develop a formulation that reduced the color and increased the solubility of AGSE, allowing its skin-health-enhancing properties to be utilized in a wider array of products, and to test it clinically. Encapsulation was performed utilizing a liposome and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, (HPCD)-based approach to produce Encapsulated AGSE (E-AGSE). Human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes were used to determine expression levels of aging and dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) markers. EpiDerm™ was UVB-irradiated to measure the effects against cytokine release, DNA damage, apoptosis, and skin barrier. Human melanocytes were used to determine melanin production and mushroom tyrosinase was used for inhibitory activity. A 4-week, 31-subject sensitive-skin clinical was performed with 2% E-AGSE Essence to assess its activity on human skin. We demonstrated that E-AGSE inhibits PP2A demethylation, increases key anti-aging (collagen I, III, elastin) and DEJ markers, protects against UVB-induced DNA damage, reduces inflammation, and promotes filaggrin in vitro. Moreover, E-AGSE reduces melanin production via tyrosinase inhibition. Clinical assessment of E-AGSE showed that it reduces the appearance of wrinkles, brightens the skin, and boosts hydration. E-AGSE is a novel grape seed extract formulation enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids that is clinically effective in sensitive skin, providing several benefits. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, Formulations and Devices)
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Review

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15 pages, 777 KiB  
Review
Managing Skin Ageing as a Modifiable Disorder—The Clinical Application of Nourella® Dual Approach Comprising a Nano-Encapsulated Retinoid, Retilex-A® and a Skin Proteoglycan Replacement Therapy, Vercilex®
by Jan Wadstein, Israel Sánchez Alvarez and Lidia Bernal López
Cosmetics 2022, 9(2), 31; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics9020031 - 15 Mar 2022
Cited by 3 | Viewed by 4117
Abstract
Skin ageing is a progressive, but modifiable, multi-factorial disorder that involves all the skin’s tissues. Due to its wide range of physiological and psychosocial complications, skin ageing requires rigorous clinical attention. In this review, we aim to encourage clinicians to consider skin ageing [...] Read more.
Skin ageing is a progressive, but modifiable, multi-factorial disorder that involves all the skin’s tissues. Due to its wide range of physiological and psychosocial complications, skin ageing requires rigorous clinical attention. In this review, we aim to encourage clinicians to consider skin ageing as a disorder and suggest a novel, dual approach to its clinical treatment. Topical retinoids and per-oral proteoglycans are promising, non-invasive, therapeutic modalities. To overcome the low bioavailability of conventional free retinoids, Nourella® cream with Retilex-A® (Pharma Medico, Aarhus, Denmark) was developed using a proprietary nano-encapsulation technology. The nano-encapsulation is a sophisticated ‘permeation/penetration enhancer’ that optimises topical drug delivery by increasing the surface availability and net absorption ratio. Treatment adherence is also improved by minimising skin irritation. Interventional evidence suggests the greater efficacy of Retilex-A® in improving skin thickness and elasticity compared with conventional free forms. It is also reported that the rejuvenating efficacy of Retilex-A® and tretinoin are comparable. Another skin anti-ageing approach is proteoglycan replacement therapy (PRT) with Vercilex®. Vercilex® in Nourella® tablet form has the potential to ameliorate proteoglycan dysmetabolism in aged skin by activating skin cells and improving collagen/elastin turnover. Replicated clinical trials evidenced that PRT can significantly enhance the density, elasticity and thickness of both intrinsically aged and photoaged skin. Evidently, Vercilex® and Retilex-A® share a range of bioactivities that underlie their synergistic activity, as observed in a clinical trial. Dual therapy with Nourella® tablets and cream produced greater effects on skin characteristics than monotherapy with each of the two treatments. In conclusion, Nourella® cream and tablets are safe and effective treatments for skin ageing; however, combining the two in a ‘dual skin rejuvenation system’ significantly improves treatment outcomes. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Novel Cosmetic Ingredients, Formulations and Devices)
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