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Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary...
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Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics

A special issue of Cosmetics (ISSN 2079-9284).

Deadline for manuscript submissions: 31 December 2024 | Viewed by 10225

Special Issue Editor

Prof. Dr. Enzo Berardesca

E-Mail Website
Guest Editor
Department of Dermatology and Cutaneous Surgery, University of Miami, Miami, FL 33136, USA
Interests: dermatology; skin care; contact dermatitis; cosmetic efficacy; cosmetic formulation; barrier function; skin irritation
Special Issues, Collections and Topics in MDPI journals

Special Issue Information

Dear Colleagues,

It is my pleasure to celebrate  the 10th anniversary of Cosmetics, which, over these years, has become a reference for many scientists interested in this area of research. Ten years ago, we took the first steps towards the creation of a journal covering all the different interests related to the biological, biochemical, and clinical research in the cosmetic world. Today, Cosmetics is a common platform for all scientists willing to communicate and exchange information and scientific ideas in this field. Indeed, cosmetic research is a field that aims to develop new products and methods for enhancing the appearance and health of the skin, hair, nails, and other body parts.

Cosmetic research is driven by various factors, such as consumer demand, technological innovations, environmental concerns, and regulatory requirements.

Among the main trends in cosmetic research is the use of natural and organic ingredients, which are perceived as safer, more sustainable, and more ethical than synthetic ones. Natural and organic cosmetics are made from plant-based, mineral, or animal-derived substances, such as oils, extracts, waxes, pigments, and enzymes.

Customization is another trend in cosmetic research. This refers to the development of personalized and customized products which cater to the specific needs and preferences of individual consumers. Personalized and customized cosmetics are based on factors such as skin type, skin tone, hair color, age, lifestyle, and genetic makeup. Some examples of personalized and customized cosmetics are serums, foundations, hair dyes, and fragrances.

Furthermore,  the integration of biotechnology and nanotechnology, which enable the creation of novel and advanced materials and formulations, is another key trend. Biotechnology and nanotechnology are fields that manipulate biological and molecular structures such as cells, proteins, DNA, and nanoparticles at the microscopic level. Some examples of biotechnology and nanotechnology cosmetics may be found in anti-aging creams, sunscreens, hair growth stimulants, and color-changing cosmetics.

I am looking forward to receiving your contributions!

Prof. Dr. Enzo Berardesca
Guest Editor

Manuscript Submission Information

Manuscripts should be submitted online at www.mdpi.com by registering and logging in to this website. Once you are registered, click here to go to the submission form. Manuscripts can be submitted until the deadline. All submissions that pass pre-check are peer-reviewed. Accepted papers will be published continuously in the journal (as soon as accepted) and will be listed together on the special issue website. Research articles, review articles as well as short communications are invited. For planned papers, a title and short abstract (about 100 words) can be sent to the Editorial Office for announcement on this website.

Submitted manuscripts should not have been published previously, nor be under consideration for publication elsewhere (except conference proceedings papers). All manuscripts are thoroughly refereed through a single-blind peer-review process. A guide for authors and other relevant information for submission of manuscripts is available on the Instructions for Authors page. Cosmetics is an international peer-reviewed open access semimonthly journal published by MDPI.

Please visit the Instructions for Authors page before submitting a manuscript. The Article Processing Charge (APC) for publication in this open access journal is 1800 CHF (Swiss Francs). Submitted papers should be well formatted and use good English. Authors may use MDPI's English editing service prior to publication or during author revisions.

Keywords

  • materials and ingredient research related to cosmetics
  • therapeutic options for skin, hair and body care
  • product formulations and ingredients
  • cosmetic olfactory research developments
  • technologies in cosmetic product development
  • testing of skin and hair products
  • toxicological studies of cosmetic products
  • in vivo and in vitro testing of cosmetic products
  • pure and applied research involved in skin, hair and body cosmetics
  • analytical chemistry of essential components involved in cosmetic product formulations
  • biomedicine research on biologically active components
  • regulatory and ethical issues in cosmetic research
  • dermatology, microbiology, anatomy, physiology, immunology and biochemistry of the skin
  • facial rejuvenation, laser therapy
  • cosmetic surgery and related medicine techniques

Published Papers (7 papers)

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Research

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15 pages, 2063 KiB  
Article
Potential Benefits of a Cosmetic Ingredient Combining Thermal Spring Water and Diatom Algae Extract
by Maria Lourdes Mourelle, Jordi Segura de Yebra, Jordi Ayats, Maria Vitale and Ana López Sánchez
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 62; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics11020062 - 17 Apr 2024
Viewed by 902
Abstract
The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here [...] Read more.
The development of cosmetic ingredients improving the management of skin with irritation proclivity is an actual need. However, medical recommendations in specific cases, such as sensitive skin, include the use of as few and low-reactive ingredients as possible. In this context, we here describe the development of a new ingredient consisting of a mixture of thermal water and a diatom algae extract. First, we characterized a thermal spring water (La Solia, LS-TSW). Attending to its chemical composition, LS-TSW displayed an exclusive combination of different inorganic elements, with interesting potential properties when compared with other commercial spring waters. Then, LS-TSW hydrobiome was studied, and after finding specimens of Phaeodactylum-like sp., we proposed potentiating LS-TSW benefits with its combination with an oil extract of Phaeodactylum tricornutum (PtOE). Finally, we assessed the potential of the mixture during pro-inflammatory stimulation, in the first instance using an immune cell model, and then in an in vitro system mimicking keratinocytes under skin irritation. In the last-mentioned model, the ingredient of interest effectively attenuated the induced levels of different pro-inflammatory mediators (IL-6, IL-1, TNFα, NF-κB, and CCL1), at the level of gene expression. Thus, our results highlight the potential benefits of this combination in the context of skin irritation, opening roads for its use in new skincare regimens, and addressing an important dermatological concern. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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25 pages, 5605 KiB  
Article
Eco-Designing Cosmetic Products while Preserving the Sensorial-Application Properties: An Instrumental Approach toward Sustainable Formulations
by Giovanni Tafuro, Alessia Costantini, Mario Piatto, Silvia Lucchetti, Stefano Francescato, Laura Busata, Giovanni Baratto and Alessandra Semenzato
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 60; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics11020060 - 15 Apr 2024
Viewed by 715
Abstract
Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable [...] Read more.
Driven by growing environmental concerns and regulations, cosmetic companies are seeking reliable methods to promptly assess the possibility of replacing high-impact ingredients with sustainable alternatives. In this work, we exploited rheological and texture analyses to evaluate the possibility of using natural and biodegradable raw materials for reformulating three commercial oil-in-water skin care emulsions from an eco-design perspective. Synthetic texturizers, like nylon-12 and PMMA, were replaced with starch, maltodextrin, and silica, while acrylic rheological modifiers were substituted with polysaccharide associations of sclerotium gum, xanthan gum, diutan gum, and carrageenan. Plant-based emollients and a biodegradable elastomer were used as alternatives to silicone oils. The flow and viscoelastic properties of the samples were characterized using rheological tests under continuous and oscillatory flow conditions. The immersion/de-immersion texture analysis allowed us to measure the mechanical properties of firmness, adhesiveness, and stringiness. A double-blind sensory test assessed the products’ application and sensory characteristics. The results revealed that rheology and texture analysis are complementary and correlated techniques, useful for predicting cosmetics’ sensory characteristics. While perfect replication of the original formulas might not be achievable, this protocol can aid formulators in selecting new eco-friendly ingredients ensuring the products’ desired application and sensory properties without compromising consumer experience. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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12 pages, 1336 KiB  
Article
Anti-Aging Properties of Cannabis sativa Leaf Extract against UVA Irradiation
by Kunlathida Luangpraditkun, Preeyanuch Pimjuk, Preeyawass Phimnuan, Wisanee Wisanwattana, Chothip Wisespongpand, Neti Waranuch and Jarupa Viyoch
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 45; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics11020045 - 18 Mar 2024
Viewed by 1787
Abstract
Hemp extract has garnered interest as a potential cosmeceutical agent with multifunctional activities, particularly in protecting against UV-induced skin cell aberrations and restoring aged skin cells. The ethanolic extract of Cannabis sativa leaves was prepared into an aqueous solution (CLES) to investigate its [...] Read more.
Hemp extract has garnered interest as a potential cosmeceutical agent with multifunctional activities, particularly in protecting against UV-induced skin cell aberrations and restoring aged skin cells. The ethanolic extract of Cannabis sativa leaves was prepared into an aqueous solution (CLES) to investigate its anti-photoaging ability. HPLC analysis revealed that the CLES contained 1.64 ± 0.01% w/w of cannabidiol and 0.11% w/w of ∆9-tetrahydrocannabinol. Additionally, the total phenolic content was found to be 4.08 ± 0.30 mg gallic acid equivalent per g of solution using the Folin–Ciocalteu method. The CLES exhibited potent scavenging activity using a DPPH assay, with an EC50 value of 277.9 ± 2.41 μg/mL, comparable to L-ascorbic acid, with 2.19 ± 0.28 μg/mL. The anti-photoaging potential of the CLES was evaluated using UVA-irradiated and in vitro-aged fibroblasts as a model. Pre-treatment with 20 μg/mL CLES for 24 h significantly alleviated the reduction in type I procollagen and suppressed the overproduction of MMP-1 and IL-6 induced by UVA. Moreover, the percentage of senescence-associated β-galactosidase-expressing cells decreased significantly to 11.9 ± 0.5% in the aged cells treated with CLES compared with untreated cells (18.8 ± 3.8%). These results strongly indicate the cosmeceutical potential of the CLES as an effective active agent for the anti-photoaging prevention and/or treatment. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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22 pages, 3909 KiB  
Article
Olive Leaves and Citrus Peels: From Waste to Potential Resource for Cosmetic Products
by Nicola d’Avanzo, Antonia Mancuso, Rosario Mare, Antonio Silletta, Samantha Maurotti, Ortensia Ilaria Parisi, Maria Chiara Cristiano and Donatella Paolino
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 41; https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11020041 - 08 Mar 2024
Viewed by 1601
Abstract
Resource depletion and food waste accumulation represent a tremendous socio-economic and environmental problem. One promising strategy involves the use of byproducts derived from food waste as ingredients for cosmetic products. The aim of this work is to propose clementine peels and olive leaf [...] Read more.
Resource depletion and food waste accumulation represent a tremendous socio-economic and environmental problem. One promising strategy involves the use of byproducts derived from food waste as ingredients for cosmetic products. The aim of this work is to propose clementine peels and olive leaf extracts as value-added bioproducts for a cosmetic cream. Extracts were obtained by super critical extraction showing an antioxidant activity of ca. 25%. No cytotoxic effects of the extracts were recorded on keratinocyte cells up to a concentration of 4% v/v ratio within 24 h. The incorporation of clementine peels and olive leaf extracts into creams did not compromise their stability, as demonstrated by Turbiscan analyses at room and extreme (40 °C) storage conditions. The safety profiles of the final cosmetic formulations were further in vivo demonstrated on human volunteers. We analyzed the trans-epidermal water loss and variation of the skin’s erythematous index, which showed profiles that almost overlapped with the negative control. Moreover, rheological analysis of the resulting creams evidences their suitable spreadability with similar pseudoplastic profiles, although a slight reduction of viscosity was recorded by improving the extracts’ concentrations. The proposed approach highlights the advantage of combining byproduct resources and supercritical fluid extraction to obtain a safe and eco-friendly face cream. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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17 pages, 4704 KiB  
Article
A Hylocereus undatus Extract Enhances Skin Microbiota Balance and Delivers In-Vivo Improvements in Skin Health and Beauty
by Fabien Havas, Shlomo Krispin, Moshe Cohen and Joan Attia-Vigneau
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 39; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics11020039 - 07 Mar 2024
Viewed by 1466
Abstract
Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations [...] Read more.
Skin microbiota, and its diversity and balance, play a key role in skin health and beauty, influencing skin moisture, barrier function, and radiance. A healthy skin microbiota limits the growth of detrimental species, protecting the skin from pathologies. Prebiotics can support beneficial populations in outcompeting detrimental ones. Dragon fruit (Hylocereus undatus) contains prebiotic polysaccharides effective on gut bacteria. Its extract was tested in vitro, in a coculture model including representative beneficial and detrimental species, and in double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trials. Effects on the skin microbiota were measured via 16S rDNA sequencing, and skin health and beauty benefits were evaluated through image analysis, TEWL measurement, and chromametry. Doppler flowmetry measured skin resilience. The extract supported S. epidermidis and S. hominis (beneficial species), while limiting S. aureus and C. acnes (representing pathogens) in vitro. Clinical results demonstrated its beneficial effects on skin microbiota diversity, especially in older volunteers (Faith’s index up to +20% vs. placebo). Improvements were shown in skin sensitivity and resilience (by ca. 30% vs. placebo), skin redness (reflecting inflammation status), pigmentation and radiance (+11% ITA), barrier function (−13% TEWL), and wrinkling. This demonstrates this extract’s positive effects on the beauty, health, and microbiota balance of the skin. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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7 pages, 469 KiB  
Communication
Efficacy and Skin Microbiome Modulation Effects of a Fixed-Concentration Combination of Benzoyl Peroxide 4% Plus Niacinamide 4% in a Film-Forming Cream in Subjects with Mild-to-Moderate Acne: A Non-Sponsored, Prospective, Assessor-Blinded, Pilot Trial
by Mario Puviani and Klaus Eisendle
Cosmetics 2024, 11(1), 25; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics11010025 - 07 Feb 2024
Viewed by 1681
Abstract
Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) and niacinamide (Niac) are commonly used alone or in combination with other molecules in the treatment of acne. BPO and Niac in the same product could exert complementary and synergistic effects improving efficacy in acne. Furthermore, Niac could reduce some [...] Read more.
Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) and niacinamide (Niac) are commonly used alone or in combination with other molecules in the treatment of acne. BPO and Niac in the same product could exert complementary and synergistic effects improving efficacy in acne. Furthermore, Niac could reduce some side effects of BPO, such as skin irritation and erythema. A film-forming cream product containing BPO 4% and Niac 4%, vehiculated in a mixture of polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and perfluoropolyether (PFPE) has been recently developed (B-N cream). A 28-day, assessor-blinded pilot trial was conducted to evaluate the clinical efficacy, skin tolerability, sebum production, skin redness, and skin microbiome modulation of B-N cream in subjects with mild to moderate acne of the face. Twenty-two adult men and women with mild-to-moderate acne of the face participated in this trial, after their written informed consent. B-N cream was applied once daily in the evening. The use of B-N cream was associated with a statistically significant decrease in acne lesions after treatment in comparison with baseline (non-inflammatory lesions: −40%; inflammatory lesions: −43% and total lesions: −41%). The use of the cream was not associated with a skin barrier function alteration. The skin redness score (−11%) and the sebum production (−42%) were significantly reduced after treatment. The use of B-N cream determined a reduction in the relative abundance of the Actinobacteria phylum (Corynebacterium and Propionibacterium, from 56% to 47%) and a significant increase in the abundance of Bacteroidetes phylum (from 3% to 5.2%). In addition, the product was well tolerated. In conclusion, this film-forming, medical device cream was effective in subjects with mild-to-moderate acne, reducing acne lesions and sebum production without altering skin barrier function, offering good skin tolerability. Furthermore, this product exerts positive skin microbiome modulation effects. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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Review

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21 pages, 2225 KiB  
Review
Innovative Strategies for Photoallergy Assessment: Breaking Free from Animal Models in Cosmetic Ingredient Development
by Adriana Solange Maddaleno, Maria Pilar Vinardell and Montserrat Mitjans
Cosmetics 2024, 11(2), 47; https://0-doi-org.brum.beds.ac.uk/10.3390/cosmetics11020047 - 25 Mar 2024
Viewed by 1051
Abstract
Photoallergy, a unique form of skin sensitization induced by specific compounds under ultraviolet irradiation, has traditionally been investigated using animals. However, the prohibition of animal testing for the assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and other countries underscores the necessity for in vitro [...] Read more.
Photoallergy, a unique form of skin sensitization induced by specific compounds under ultraviolet irradiation, has traditionally been investigated using animals. However, the prohibition of animal testing for the assessment of cosmetic ingredients in Europe and other countries underscores the necessity for in vitro or in silico alternative methods. Currently, there are no validated methods for assessing photoallergy or photosensitization, presenting a significant challenge in the development of new cosmetic ingredients. This review examines the landscape of alternative methods for detecting photosensitization, emphasizing recent publications, and considering the underlying principles of the different proposed assays. Full article
(This article belongs to the Special Issue Current and Future Trends in Cosmetics Research: The 10th Anniversary of Cosmetics)
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